African prints known as Ankara have gained popularity over the last five years, with many designers choosing these eclectic tribal-patterns and motifs to brighten up summer and autumn collections.
Where do these prints originate from?
The answer you might think of is Africa, Ghana perhaps, but you’d be wrong. Ankara is the capital of Turkey so perhaps Turkey is the answer? Wrong again. The true origin of these prints actually starts in 18th century Europe.
Ankara was originally known as Dutch Wax print which gives us a clue to its origin. Dutch Wax Print was developed by the Dutch to sell to patrons in Indonesia. The bright contrasting colors and tribal-patterns were originally designed to reflect Indonesian batik fabric and had nothing to do with Africa. Traditional batik fabric was very expensive to produce due to the labor involved in manual wax printing. Modern industrial techniques from Europe aimed to reduce the price considerably making this beautiful fabric more accessible to the wider population.
However, many Indonesians didn’t take kindly to the introduction of mass-produced batik from abroad. It was seen as inferior to the handmade fabric traditionally used and was largely ignored by most Indonesians.
What was Indonesia’s loss was to be Africa’s gain?
Many West Africans working in Indonesia at the time, usually for the Dutch shipping companies, took to Ankara’s bright colors and motifs. Upon returning to Africa these exotic prints soon became the height of fashion. Not one to miss a trick, the Dutch redesigned Ankara to suit African tastes. African tribal art was then used in place of Indonesian iconography and the colours were changed to reflect West African tastes. What started as mass-produced Indonesian batik, became African inspired Ankara and the rest is history. There can be no doubt these beautiful fabrics are associated with Africa today. Ask any African if they identify with the motifs depicted in Ankara and the answer is an emphatic yes.
In other beliefs, the african tribal prints were influenced by the following
Symbolism and Cultural Significance: African tribal prints are more than just fashionable fabrics; they carry profound symbolism and cultural significance. Each print design has a story to tell, representing aspects of African life, such as history, proverbs, folklore, spirituality, and social status. For instance, certain patterns may denote royalty, while others may celebrate specific events or highlight traditional beliefs and values.
Regional Variations: Africa is a diverse continent with a multitude of ethnic groups, each having its distinct traditions and textile practices. Consequently, African tribal prints vary significantly from region to region. Some well-known regional styles include Kente cloth from Ghana, Adire from Nigeria, Shweshwe from South Africa, and Kitenge from East Africa. These styles not only differ in patterns but also in the techniques used for printing and dyeing the fabrics.
Contemporary Relevance: In recent years, African tribal prints have experienced a global resurgence, with many international fashion designers incorporating these prints into their collections. The popularity of these prints has helped promote African fashion and craft industries, empowering local artisans and generating economic opportunities. However, it is crucial to recognize and respect the cultural origins of these prints, appreciating their heritage rather than appropriating them for purely aesthetic purposes.
Preserving the Legacy: As African tribal prints continue to captivate the world, it is essential to promote ethical practices that honor the heritage of these fabrics. Supporting African designers, artisans, and textile industries can help sustain traditional craftsmanship and ensure the fair treatment of workers involved in the production process. Additionally, learning about the cultural significance of African tribal prints fosters a deeper appreciation for their origins and the communities that have nurtured these art forms for generations.
Ankara wax prints today
Today, Ankara is used to promote African culture across the world and is proudly worn by West and East Africans alike. They have made Ankara their own, so much so that it’s early European history has largely been forgotten.
But there is still one link back to the original fabrics of the 18th century. Mitex Holland Wax Prints are some of the most sought after West African fabrics available in today’s market.
Mitex, a family company founded in the Netherlands, produces West African wax prints for a truly global market. At Sikofa Authentic Afrikan Dress, we offer a full range of Mitex Holland products in both traditional and contemporary styles, so you can be sure to find a design that suits your taste.
